I wanted to share all the thoughts going through my head when approaching a seafood stew.
One of my short comings with my approach to cooking along with impatience, has always been, overthinking…I truly wish I could cook like some of those super talented chefs, all instinct and balls. When I was Cheffing I got there but over the years away from the professional kitchen I have lost the swagger. Imposter syndrome in full effect…So, I wanted to make a seafood chowder or stew of some sort but not wanting to recreate a standing recipe…At first, I vacillated between my New England root sensibility and French training. I wanted rich and soothing but also wanted a more refined dish. Do I use bacon or salt pork as in chowder or butter, do I add clams? Mussels? A search through my freezer yielded lobster stock, scallops, shrimp and flounder fillet, no lobster unfortunately because I don’t have those kinds of funds. So, if I use bacon with lobster? that didn’t sit well with me, so I opted for the butter. Since I was using butter and cream in the recipe I thought, “OK” so what about tomato? do I add some tomato element to compliment the lobster and add some acidity? Leaning into the rustic, yes. so, a little paste and white wine…because I wanted the acidity but also a little complexity. California Chardonnay, not exactly traditional given the heavier butter and toast notes in these but hey Lobster LOVES Chardonnay. Red potatoes…I liked the texture of these waxier potatoes anyway in a stew rather than a russet which can have a barely detectable graininess. Do I leave the skins on leaning toward the rustic? I liked the idea of the color but opted to compromise. I just slightly peeled them. A conversation with my talented friend Trey who knows his way around food mentioned tarragon…tres French! So, we are going very French with this one so…leeks. yep, that delicate grassy onion flavor to build on. I opted to use the shrimp shells and mussel parts taken off the scallops, simmer in cold water to capture some sweetness. So, to build…sweat the onions, celery and leeks in butter till melty soft, add a small amount of garlic…add a bit of roundness to the base…, tomato paste goes in but no roast…just heat a little, white wine in, simmer till half, sange with a bit of flour for body. Add stock and bring to simmer…. here is where I lost my mind, I grated a little Bottarga into the muck with the intention of adding some umami…a little Thai influence of adding a bit of funk. Add in bigger diced potatoes for texture, simmer till tender. In with the cream, lower heat and allow to reduce a bit, get all creamy and yummy. Last introduce the scallops and shrimp to gently poach, to avoid rubber and then fish last, adjust the seasoning and add in minced tarragon and some celery heart leaves (for lift) to serve. After all of these deliberations and as in most cases I came out with a dish I could stand upon…rich, creamy, soothing, tender seafood and potatoes, complex but simple.
Yeah, I still got it.
Creamy Opulent Seafood Stew
Equipment
- 1 4-quart heavy bottomed pot
Ingredients
- 3 Tbsp Butter
- 1 medium Leek washed and diced
- 1/2 medium Onion
- 2 Stalks celery
- 1 Clove garlic
- 1.5 Tbsp Tomato paste
- 1/3 Cup White Wine Chardonnay, the richness helps here.
- 1.5 Tbsp Flour
- 2 Cups lobster or shellfish stock
- 3 larger Red Skinned Potatoes, diced into 2-inch cubes
- 1 Cup Heavy Cream
- 5 Each Scallops, cut in half 10-20 Count
- 6 Each Shrimp preferably on the large side 21-15 range
- 1 4 oz. Flounder, diced into 2-inch chunks any firm white fish will do
- 1 Tsp Tarragon, minced
- Salt and Black pepper to taste
Instructions
- Wash, Peel and cut all ingredients per the above instructions. Over medium heat, Heat butter in the pot till sizzling. Add onions, celery and leeks, stir to coat in butter, allow to slowly cook until very soft. Add garlic and stir for about a minute. Add tomato paste and combine. Add wine and allow to simmer for a few minutes till slightly evaporated. Sprinkle flour and stir to combine. Add lobster stock and allow to come to a simmer, allow to cook for about 10 m minutes. Add potatoes. When potatoes are just tender add cream. Simmer for an additional 10 minutes. Check the seasoning of your broth, add salt and pepper as necessary. Add the shrimp and scallops, gently stir and allow to cook for about a minute. Add flounder and allow to cook about a minute. Serve in a warm bowl sprinkled with fresh tarragon.